Home Makeover Diva

Wall Edge Painting Tips

02.26.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Eddie writes:

Help! I always mess up on the edges when I’m painting. Do you have any painting tips that could help me out? Any advice is appreciated.

Eddie, as you well know, painting is not as easy as it appears on home improvement shows. But that’s probably just because we don’t have a highly trained team of painters to come in and do the work for us when the cameras aren’t rolling! That said, I do have three-time tested edge painting tips to help you out of your current crisis!

First of all, never trust that painters tape is going to work without any special help from you. I don’t care what color it is, either. The painters tape could be the old standby known as blue tape or the newer green Frogtape and you’ll still have very similar results with either. Especially if your wall is textured. A wall with even a minuscule texture such as orange peel will leave blemishes in your straight line. This is because the tape doesn’t settle down into all the ridges of the texture. Even if you spend extra time rubbing the tape into every crevice, you will no doubt miss a few spots and have some bleed through with the paint.

The best tip I’ve found to combat this is paint grade caulking. I prefer the kitchen and bath kind in white, but that is just because it’s what I usually have handy. Spread the caulking on the edge of the tape that you’ll be painting over. I usually only spread a bead of about 6 inches long at a time and then use my fingers to smooth it into the edge and spread it further down the line. It is very important to make sure that you are spreading the caulking over the edge of the tape in a direction that keeps the tape edge smooth. Otherwise you’ll just be raising the edge and causing more problems for yourself. Make sure that as you spread the caulking you are keeping it smooth. You don’t want to cause any high spots that will cause a noticeable blemish on your wall. Once you’ve spread the caulking over the entire area, wait until it is fully dry before painting over the area.

Second, use an angled paint brush when cutting in. An angled paint brush will help you cut in on places where walls meet. For me an angled brush is especially helpful when painting the top edge of the wall where it meets the ceiling. If you hold the paint brush so that the width of the bristles are parallel to where the wall and ceiling meet you can glide the paint brush across easily. It helps to make sure that you have just the right amount of paint on the bristles. You don’t want to overload the brush, as that will cause you to get paint on the ceiling.

You can also use an angled brush when cutting in around door frames and where walls meet. In this instance it is easier to use just the angled edge of the brush instead of using the entire width. Once again though it is best not to load the brush down with too much paint, otherwise you’ll get paint the door frame or opposite wall.

And lastly, have a paint rag ready. It never hurts to be prepared. That’s why I purchase painters rags in bulk and always have a few nearby when I’m painting. This is especially helpful when painting around doors and trim. I always keep a rag or two sticking out of my pants pockets, so that I can grab one as needed. Keeping one handy will make it easier to wipe off your hands or wipe down a door or baseboard quickly. A paint rag will keep you clean and it will help keep an accident from ruining your new paint job.

Eddie, these three tips are ones that I’ve learned over the years to just help make painting easier on me. Use them or adapt them to something that works best for you, just know that there are things you can do to make painting edges easier! Also one last thing to mention, I don’t care how many of those edge painting tools are designed, I’ve never found one that worked as effortlessly and easily as was claimed. In fact most of the time they seemed to make more work for me. It seems nothing beats experience when it comes to painting edges.

Do you have questions about the selecting or the installation of: tile, carpet or wall treatments (window blinds, etc)? Then email me your tale of woe (diva(at)homemakeoverdiva.com) and perhaps I will be able to answer your questions right here at the Home Makeover Diva Blog.

How Many Coats Of Red Paint Are Needed?

02.26.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today April writes:

Dear Diva, I bought this beautiful color of red paint for my dining room and after painting two coats on the wall it looks nothing like the sample! It’s an ugly pinkish hue! What happened? I’m not a newbie but this is my first dark color. Did I buy bad paint or something? Should I have sprung for the paint and primer in one combo? Please help!

April, unless the paint you purchased was old or exposed to extreme temperatures, you probably did not buy ‘bad’ paint. What you’re describing sounds like a common issue that a lot of people have with reds and other dark or pigment rich paint colors. That said, in order to rule out any other potential problems, I must ask if your paint is experiencing any of these issues: Does the paint appear milky or glassy? Is there a noticeable chemical separation – that mixing will not get rid of? Is the paint cracking or peeling as soon as it dries? If your answer is yes to any of these issues and you have recently purchased the paint, take what is left in the can to the retailer and ask for a refund.

If your answer is no, then it’s most likely not the paint that is the issue. Which means you need to adjust your expectations. Depending on the original color of the wall, the new paint color, and the type of paint you are using, it could take a minimum of three coats to achieve the color you’re after. So don’t give up! It’s just going to take more work than you originally imagined, but you’ll get there! I know this is most likely not the advice you were looking for and I’m sorry for that. But, it is the truth! The fact of the matter is that when you are dealing with a rich paint color like red, you have to apply more coats to get the desired results.

Think of painting a wall like decorating a cake. When you put white frosting on a chocolate cake, if the frosting isn’t thick enough the darkness of the chocolate cake shows through the frosting, affecting its color. So you compensate by applying more frosting until the color is consistent. Paint is the same way. If you haven’t applied enough coats, the paint isn’t thick enough, and the wall color underneath affects your end result.

How this applies to your situation April, is that right now you can still see the cake underneath the frosting; i.e. the wall color underneath your red paint, which is why your walls are still an ugly pinkish hue. If your current color is close to the end result, then I wouldn’t worry about this and just continue on with the paint you’ve already purchased. Odds are you’ll achieve the color you are looking for in the next coat or two.

However if your color is still too far off, I’d consider going back and purchasing the paint and primer in one combo you mentioned above. Now it’s important to remember that some people would have you believe that a paint and primer in one combo could tackle this job in just one coat. Unfortunately this is not true. When it comes to darker pigment rich paint colors, it will still take two or three coats to get the job done. Considering that you’ve already painted two coats on your wall and it is not even close to the color of the sample, it might be time to switch to a paint that is a little thicker and will coat the wall better. I hate to tell you to buy another paint product, but this may save you time in the long run. Not to mention that if the combo paint gets the job done in less coats, it might actually be cheaper because it requires less paint.

Whether you stick with it and apply more coats of paint or purchase a combo paint instead, in the end you’ll see the results you were hoping for. It’s just going to take a bit more elbow grease to get the job done!

Do you have questions about the selecting or the installation of: tile, carpet or wall treatments (window blinds, etc)? Then email me your tale of woe (diva(at)homemakeoverdiva.com) and perhaps I will be able to answer your questions right here at the Home Makeover Diva Blog!

Refinishing Or Replacing Your Bathroom Vanity Cabinet

02.25.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Carissa writes:

Dear Diva, I’ve lived in my house for 4 years now and I can’t take my master bathroom any longer! It’s fixtures are old and I’m ready for a re-do! Problem is, my budget isn’t very big. I have given it a lot of thought, and I think if I change the bathroom vanity I can get the biggest bang out of my buck! Problem is, I don’t know what to do. How do I decide whether I need to completely replace the vanity or if I can get away with just refinishing it? Any help would be gladly accepted!

Carissa, depending on the age of your home, this question may be easier to answer then you think. If you live in an older home or the fixtures in the bathroom are ancient, you may need to figure out what needs to be replaced first. To quote my grandmother; “If it won’t last the winter, then you need to replace it!” The reason I’m pointing this out is because I’ve seen countless home owners refinish items on the outside that were aesthetically displeasing, and then run out of money to replace the internal items that actually needed to be addressed. For example: refinishing the outside of an outdated vanity cabinet is nice, but if your plumbing is leaking or problematic, you won’t be able to use it.

Your first step should be figuring out what really needs to be replaced. Put aesthetics aside for a moment, and consider the state of the plumbing in your existing bathroom vanity. Is anything internally leaking, cracked, or just unusable? If you can answer yes to any of these, then you need to fix that item first before you move onto the cabinet portion of the vanity. If the answer is no, and you just don’t like the look of your bathroom vanity, then check out the pros and cons list below to help you decide on your next step.

Refinish your bathroom vanity cabinet- To refinish your vanity cabinet, you’ll need to first remove the old hardware. This means removing all vanity handles and pulls, as well as the hinges. The logic behind this is that you’ll have an easier time painting the doors and cabinet once they are removed. Next, wash the cabinet with a good household cleaner to remove any surface residue and dirt. For vanities that have been previously painted, I’d recommend sanding off the existing paint before applying a new coat.

For cabinets that have been stained on the other hand, I’d recommend using a deglosser before applying a primer. Watch this video on how to paint old cabinets to learn about Deglosser and go over the basics of refinishing a bathroom vanity cabinet. Once you’ve sanded or deglossed your vanity, apply the primer, and wait the recommended time for it to dry. Then apply your paint. Read the instructions on the paint can for best results. Typically, you’ll apply a minimum of 2 coats of paint. Then apply the new hardware and you’re set!

If you are new to painting cabinets, have multiple cabinets to paint, or just like having everything you need paint-wise in one handy kit, you might want to check out Rust-Oleum’s Cabinet Transformations painting system. It’s DIY friendly, comes in a variety of colors and helps simplify the process. I’ll admit it would be a little spendy if you’re working on only one tiny vanity cabinet since it starts at around $75 per kit. But for newbies and larger projects, I think it’s well worth the extra money.

One quick additional note, not all bathroom vanities are created equally. For example, a solid wood cabinet will be easier to refinish then a particle board one. Not to mention, that as life happens in your bathroom the new paint on the particle board will scratch and crack much easier than a painted piece of solid wood. For vanity cabinets that are made of particle board or have laminate veneers, I strongly suggest going the replacement route instead.

Refinishing Pros: Inexpensive, easy to do, and versatile – you can make the cabinet any color you choose!

Refinishing Cons: Doesn’t work well on particle board or laminate veneers, will not fix functional concerns, or increase storage space.

Replace your bathroom vanity cabinet – To replace your vanity cabinet, you’ll need to remove the old one and replace it with a new one. Keep in mind, you will also have to uninstall and reinstall all of the plumbing, as well. Depending on your DIY skill level, you may want to consider hiring someone to do this project for you. Watch this video on how to install a bathroom vanity to help you decide if you are up to the task. Plumbing is one of those home improvement projects that I warn people to only do if they’re confident in their DIY abilities and they can follow directions closely. I’m not trying to scare anyone, rather warn them that if it isn’t done correctly you could be creating a bigger problem for yourself – like a water leak or mold issue down the line.

Bathroom vanities come in a wide range of colors and styles, so you should be able to find the right vanity for your home. Not to mention, a wide range of prices, starting at as little as $39 and going up in the thousands of dollars. Because of this, I recommend waiting to choose a new cabinet until you’ve had a chance to sit down and go over your budget. This way you’ll have enough money to get the entire project done and won’t spend it all on the new vanity. Another important tip to mention, is to make sure you measure your old vanity or the space you have for a new vanity before going shopping. There is nothing worse than falling in love with and purchasing something that won’t work in your space!

Replacing Pros: Choose a whole new style, get more storage and increased functionality.

Replacing Cons: There are many steps involved in the installation process, and it can be expensive to have someone do it for you.

Whether you replace or refinish your existing bathroom vanity, I’m confident that you’ll make the right decision based on your own personal needs, style and budget!

Help Choosing Between ClosetMaid Closet Organizers

02.25.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Carmen writes:

Dear Diva, My New Year’s resolution is to get more organized! Thus far I’ve organized my kitchen and pantry, but now I need to move onto the closet in my master bedroom. There is tons of space, but I’m a little hesitate to begin. I’m looking at going with a ClosetMaid do-it-yourself organizer, but I don’t know if I should go for the wire or the wood system components. The wood look is nice, but I’m not sure if it is worth the extra money. Please help! Thanks so much for your help!

Well Carmen, you are definitely not alone with the get organized New Year’s resolution. In fact, January is typically a good month to start organizing the inside of your home, even if it’s not your resolution. The reason being that a lot of people are in the process of putting away the holiday decorations and finding a place to store any new holiday swag they might have received. So, it’s the perfect time to organize your home and make each room more usable for the year to come!

Recently I found myself in a similar situation and had to decide between the exact ClosetMaid organizers you’ve described. Ultimately I chose the wire components, but I know that look is not for everyone. With that in mind, you’ll find the 3 main factors below that I used to help me determine which closet organizer was right for me.

Cost: This was definitely a factor I considered because I had multiple closets to makeover and I wanted to get the most bang for my buck. The fact of the matter is that the wire organizers are just more economical. However, if you are only making over one closet, you can probably afford to be picky in making your selection. I suggest making a list of what you need for each closet system and then tallying up the difference dollarwise between the two. You may be able to offset the price difference by going with one less “wood-looking” unit, using shelves instead of drawers, or adding more hang bars to your closet system. Don’t just go with the wire closet system because it’s less expensive, instead explore all of your options! If you need help doing this, check out ClosetMaid’s website or go to your local authorized retailer and ask an associate for help. I spent a lot of time on the ClosetMaid website, but in the end the associate at my local home improvement store was the biggest help. She saved me money by suggesting an arrangement that I hadn’t even thought about. Plus, by doing the research you’ll have a better idea of what you are looking at price wise for each system.

Appearance: No matter how much less expensive the wire closet system may be, it’s not a good choice if you actually prefer the wood look instead. When you get done with your hard work, you want to be able to appreciate it! Not just wish you could have purchased something else entirely. So while cost is definitely a point to consider when selecting a closet system, make sure you aren’t just installing something you’ll want to replace in a year or two. It’s also worth noting that the wire look is a better option if you like more of a casual or industrial look for your closet. If instead however, your style leans towards the more traditional, then you’ll want to stick with the wood laminate closet system.

Also remember that with the wire system, even if you purchase the drawers, you will still be able to see all of the items you store in it. With the wooden themed closet systems, the drawers come with a solid door. This means you can store your underwear effectively without seeing it! Speaking for myself however, I don’t mind seeing in all of the drawers in my closet, so the wire look wasn’t a big deal. But this type of layout isn’t for everyone. So, bear this in mind when making your selection.

Versatility: The last factor I considered before making my purchase, was how versatile the closet system was in the long run. When I say versatile, I mean how easy it is to change the closet system components. For example, my organizational style changes frequently. So I wanted to make sure that what I purchased was very versatile. As luck would have it, both closet organizers happen to be fairly versatile. But. . . there is no question in my mind that the wire closet system is going to be far easier for me to change in the long run. The reason being that the only pieces that are fixed are the standards you hook the brackets into. This means the brackets are easily repositioned for your organizational needs.

While with the wood look, several of the components can be changed inside each wood unit but the main units are stationary. Meaning that if you wanted to change your overall layout you could, but you would have to uninstall and reinstall each unit to change it. For my needs, this was more work than I wanted. However, if you don’t see your needs changing or don’t over organize your closet like I do, then this would be a moot issue!

No matter which type of ClosetMaid system you choose, I’m confident that if you do your research and consider the three factors I shared above, you’ll end up purchasing the one that is right for you. Remember, not to just consider the overall cost of the unit, or how it looks when making your decision. Instead take each of the above points into consideration and you’ll be sure to you pick the unit that best fits your needs for years to come! Additionally, if you’ve done the research and still can’t make a decision on what type of organizer is right for you, there are a variety of companies out there that specialize in designing and installing closet organizers. So, you are not alone and there is professional help available for this task!

Are In-Floor Heating Mats Worth It?

02.25.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Margaret writes:

Dear Diva, I live in a very cold climate and I am tired of my feet getting cold! Do you think those in floor heating mats are a good idea? Because they sure sound nice! What brand would you recommend and do you have any install suggestions? Thanks

Margaret, you are definitely not alone in wanting to keep your feet warm this winter! Now that summer is officially over and fall has begun, a lot of people have started to think about the impending cold weather and what they could do to keep their homes just a little warmer. The most common winter insulation and maintenance that people perform this time of year are only temporary solutions; from indoor window insulation kits to outdoor faucet covers. While the in-floor heating mats you are talking about are a much more permanent heating solution.

So, the first thing I’d point out is that the in-floor heating mats are only cost-effective if you are going to replace your existing flooring, as well. Because in most cases, you cannot just tear up your existing flooring, install the heating mats and then lay the old flooring back down like nothing happened. If this is the case, and you have no plans on installing new flooring, I would consider other options to keep your toes warm this winter. Like space heaters, area rugs and slippers. I know none of these options are the same as having a heated floor, however they are the best options to consider if replacing your existing flooring is not an option.

If you are planning on replacing your existing flooring however, then I would definitely suggest adding in floor heating mats to the install. They’ll keep your toes warm this winter and can help to lower your heating costs as well. As far as which brand I would suggest, the only brand I’ve ever used is Suntouch. While I can’t provide in-depth information comparing Suntouch to other brands of floor warming mats, I can tell you that Suntouch has never failed me or any of my clients. Plus, they offer some pretty comprehensive information on their website and their installation guide is very thorough. So, with over twenty separate installs to compare to, I’d say they make a pretty solid product and if I were installing in floor heating in my own home, that’s the brand I’d choose. Plus, Suntouch floor heating mats are reasonably priced and come in convenient sizes.

Here are a few things you should know about in floor heating mats and where they can be installed:

If you are estimating the cost of in floor heating, don’t forget the price of the thermostat and all needed materials. You will need one thermostat for each room you are installing the mats in and depending on which model thermostat you choose, this could cost an additional $150 per room.

Suntouch mats can be installed under almost any floor type, though it will warm floors with the maximum amount of heat by being installed under tile, stone and laminate flooring. In floor warming mats can be installed under carpet, vinyl and wood flooring but would first have to be installed using a polymer-modified cement-based mortar. Also, you should be aware that carpeted floor will not feel as warm as tile or laminate because the pad and carpet itself insulates against it.

If you were thinking about installing the mats yourself, you should read their online install specifications guide first. Do this before purchasing any material to find out whether or not your skill level is up to the task. Because floor warming systems have to be installed under your flooring, if you are not comfortable with the install specs, hire a trained professional. Additionally, Suntouch Floor Warming Mats are DIY friendly, but you must have an electrician hook them up to the thermostat and connect the mats together.