Paint-n-Trim | Home Makeover Diva

How To Calculate Paint Quantity For Any Project

02.27.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Quick and Easy Tip: How to calculate paint for any project!

When it comes to painting projects, how do you figure out how much paint you’ll need? Most of us probably ask the clerk at the paint desk how much we should get. And normally this is fine, but what if the clerk is new to the paint department? Even worse, what if they don’t care and happen to mutter the first random thought that comes to mind? My experience at most home improvement stores is that it’s really the luck of draw as to whether you get someone who truly cares about helping you with your project, or whether they’re just watching the clock until it’s time to go home! That said, why not stop relying on someone else and find out how to do the math yourself!

Get your tape measure ready! First thing you’ll need to do is measure the area you are painting. Because you aren’t measuring for blinds or tile, you don’t have to be exact. Say your walls measure 8 feet and 5 inches, I’d just round-up to nine and call it good. This way you are less likely to short yourself. Getting back to the act of measuring, if all the walls are the same height than you only need to measure one. Because odds are pretty good that you’ll just come up with the same number. If you’ve got a half wall or something not square you’ll want to measure all the “odd” walls as well. Now that you’ve got the height down, it’s time to measure the width of all your walls. Once again I’d continue to round-up to the nearest foot when marking your measurements.

Do the Math! Once you’ve got the measurements of the areas you want to paint it is time to do the math. If you are painting one area a different color than another then you will want to separate the measurements by color. First you start out by converting each wall into square feet. For example: let’s say you’ve got a wall that is 10 feet wide by 8 feet tall. This would equal out as 8ft x 10ft = 80ft. The next wall is 15ft wide and is the same height. Therefore, this comes out to 15ft x 8ft for a total of 120sf. Wait, there’s one last step! If you add the two separate areas together, you get a grand total of 200 square feet that you’re looking to paint.

Multiple coats? Okay, so you’ve got the measurements, now what? Well, you’ll need to determine if you need to paint more than one coat of paint on each surface. I would say as a general rule, expect to paint two coats of anything that isn’t considered a really light color when painting over a white wall surface. So even though you have only 200 square feet of wall, you’ll need to double that footage calculation because you’re painting two coats. The two coats of paint breaks down as follows: 200 square feet x 2 = 400 square feet.

Width X Height = Square Feet X 2 (for multiple coats) = the amount of wall space you will need to cover.

Now that you know how much paint you need for your project, how do you know how much paint to actually buy? Well, the easiest way is to look at the back of the paint can itself and see what the recommended coverage is according to the paint company. If this doesn’t make you comfortable, then instead you could use the general painter’s rule that one gallon of paint will cover up to 400 square feet. One quart of paint on the other hand, will cover up to 100 square feet. Please understand that “I say up to” because it depends on the paint as to how well it covers. Therefore, this is where reading the back of the paint can comes in handy. Just remember though, the manufacturer’s recommendations and your actual painting project results may vary.

Speaking for myself, I usually try to error on the side of caution and purchase more paint than I think I’ll need. This works well for me because I often have additional projects I want to tackle and the extra paint comes in handy. Also, if you do the math and find that you need exactly one gallon and two quarts, I would consider just purchasing two gallons. Often times it costs just as much for two quarts as it does for an entire gallon!

Wall Edge Painting Tips

02.26.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Eddie writes:

Help! I always mess up on the edges when I’m painting. Do you have any painting tips that could help me out? Any advice is appreciated.

Eddie, as you well know, painting is not as easy as it appears on home improvement shows. But that’s probably just because we don’t have a highly trained team of painters to come in and do the work for us when the cameras aren’t rolling! That said, I do have three-time tested edge painting tips to help you out of your current crisis!

First of all, never trust that painters tape is going to work without any special help from you. I don’t care what color it is, either. The painters tape could be the old standby known as blue tape or the newer green Frogtape and you’ll still have very similar results with either. Especially if your wall is textured. A wall with even a minuscule texture such as orange peel will leave blemishes in your straight line. This is because the tape doesn’t settle down into all the ridges of the texture. Even if you spend extra time rubbing the tape into every crevice, you will no doubt miss a few spots and have some bleed through with the paint.

The best tip I’ve found to combat this is paint grade caulking. I prefer the kitchen and bath kind in white, but that is just because it’s what I usually have handy. Spread the caulking on the edge of the tape that you’ll be painting over. I usually only spread a bead of about 6 inches long at a time and then use my fingers to smooth it into the edge and spread it further down the line. It is very important to make sure that you are spreading the caulking over the edge of the tape in a direction that keeps the tape edge smooth. Otherwise you’ll just be raising the edge and causing more problems for yourself. Make sure that as you spread the caulking you are keeping it smooth. You don’t want to cause any high spots that will cause a noticeable blemish on your wall. Once you’ve spread the caulking over the entire area, wait until it is fully dry before painting over the area.

Second, use an angled paint brush when cutting in. An angled paint brush will help you cut in on places where walls meet. For me an angled brush is especially helpful when painting the top edge of the wall where it meets the ceiling. If you hold the paint brush so that the width of the bristles are parallel to where the wall and ceiling meet you can glide the paint brush across easily. It helps to make sure that you have just the right amount of paint on the bristles. You don’t want to overload the brush, as that will cause you to get paint on the ceiling.

You can also use an angled brush when cutting in around door frames and where walls meet. In this instance it is easier to use just the angled edge of the brush instead of using the entire width. Once again though it is best not to load the brush down with too much paint, otherwise you’ll get paint the door frame or opposite wall.

And lastly, have a paint rag ready. It never hurts to be prepared. That’s why I purchase painters rags in bulk and always have a few nearby when I’m painting. This is especially helpful when painting around doors and trim. I always keep a rag or two sticking out of my pants pockets, so that I can grab one as needed. Keeping one handy will make it easier to wipe off your hands or wipe down a door or baseboard quickly. A paint rag will keep you clean and it will help keep an accident from ruining your new paint job.

Eddie, these three tips are ones that I’ve learned over the years to just help make painting easier on me. Use them or adapt them to something that works best for you, just know that there are things you can do to make painting edges easier! Also one last thing to mention, I don’t care how many of those edge painting tools are designed, I’ve never found one that worked as effortlessly and easily as was claimed. In fact most of the time they seemed to make more work for me. It seems nothing beats experience when it comes to painting edges.

Do you have questions about the selecting or the installation of: tile, carpet or wall treatments (window blinds, etc)? Then email me your tale of woe (diva(at)homemakeoverdiva.com) and perhaps I will be able to answer your questions right here at the Home Makeover Diva Blog.

How Many Coats Of Red Paint Are Needed?

02.26.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today April writes:

Dear Diva, I bought this beautiful color of red paint for my dining room and after painting two coats on the wall it looks nothing like the sample! It’s an ugly pinkish hue! What happened? I’m not a newbie but this is my first dark color. Did I buy bad paint or something? Should I have sprung for the paint and primer in one combo? Please help!

April, unless the paint you purchased was old or exposed to extreme temperatures, you probably did not buy ‘bad’ paint. What you’re describing sounds like a common issue that a lot of people have with reds and other dark or pigment rich paint colors. That said, in order to rule out any other potential problems, I must ask if your paint is experiencing any of these issues: Does the paint appear milky or glassy? Is there a noticeable chemical separation – that mixing will not get rid of? Is the paint cracking or peeling as soon as it dries? If your answer is yes to any of these issues and you have recently purchased the paint, take what is left in the can to the retailer and ask for a refund.

If your answer is no, then it’s most likely not the paint that is the issue. Which means you need to adjust your expectations. Depending on the original color of the wall, the new paint color, and the type of paint you are using, it could take a minimum of three coats to achieve the color you’re after. So don’t give up! It’s just going to take more work than you originally imagined, but you’ll get there! I know this is most likely not the advice you were looking for and I’m sorry for that. But, it is the truth! The fact of the matter is that when you are dealing with a rich paint color like red, you have to apply more coats to get the desired results.

Think of painting a wall like decorating a cake. When you put white frosting on a chocolate cake, if the frosting isn’t thick enough the darkness of the chocolate cake shows through the frosting, affecting its color. So you compensate by applying more frosting until the color is consistent. Paint is the same way. If you haven’t applied enough coats, the paint isn’t thick enough, and the wall color underneath affects your end result.

How this applies to your situation April, is that right now you can still see the cake underneath the frosting; i.e. the wall color underneath your red paint, which is why your walls are still an ugly pinkish hue. If your current color is close to the end result, then I wouldn’t worry about this and just continue on with the paint you’ve already purchased. Odds are you’ll achieve the color you are looking for in the next coat or two.

However if your color is still too far off, I’d consider going back and purchasing the paint and primer in one combo you mentioned above. Now it’s important to remember that some people would have you believe that a paint and primer in one combo could tackle this job in just one coat. Unfortunately this is not true. When it comes to darker pigment rich paint colors, it will still take two or three coats to get the job done. Considering that you’ve already painted two coats on your wall and it is not even close to the color of the sample, it might be time to switch to a paint that is a little thicker and will coat the wall better. I hate to tell you to buy another paint product, but this may save you time in the long run. Not to mention that if the combo paint gets the job done in less coats, it might actually be cheaper because it requires less paint.

Whether you stick with it and apply more coats of paint or purchase a combo paint instead, in the end you’ll see the results you were hoping for. It’s just going to take a bit more elbow grease to get the job done!

Do you have questions about the selecting or the installation of: tile, carpet or wall treatments (window blinds, etc)? Then email me your tale of woe (diva(at)homemakeoverdiva.com) and perhaps I will be able to answer your questions right here at the Home Makeover Diva Blog!

Twelve Must Have Painting Supplies

02.23.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Today Adrienne writes:

What tools and supplies do you prefer when you are painting?

What a good question, Adrienne! As it turns out there are about a dozen different items that I always make sure I have on hand before I start my painting project. Some of them are no-brainers and others are items that just make painting easier for me. Unfortunately for me (but fortunately for you), some of them are the result of trial and error! Sometimes you’ve got to use the wrong tools before you can find out what the rights one are. That said, below I’ve listed my twelve must have painting supplies:

1.) Ergonomic Roller Handle and Paint Brushes – You might be tempted to buy one of those economy packs of painting supplies or just grab the cheapest options available. But when it comes to paint brushes and rollers, that would be a big mistake! You’re going to be holding onto these items for the duration of your project, why not make sure they are comfortable and fit well in your hands? Trust me on this one, there is nothing worse than only being half done with a project when your hand starts cramping up! It isn’t pleasant and spending just a couple more dollars on an ergonomic roller handle or paint brush could make a big difference in your ability to finish the painting project.

2.) Quality Angled Paint Brushes – A quality angled paint brush will make your life a whole lot easier when it comes to cutting in (edging). It’s easier to control where the paint goes and the angled edge makes working in a corner or along trim easier, as well. What I mean by quality paint brush is one that isn’t going to shed on you. The cheaper poor quality paint brushes can start shedding as you’re painting. So you’ll have to start picking the bristles off your wall or they will dry with the paint and become noticeable blemishes. It’s easier just to avoid this whole scenario and purchase good quality brushes from the start. My favorite angled brush is a 1-1/2″ Purdy brand brush. The size is perfect for edging by a baseboard heater or along the ceiling. Purdy paint brushes also last forever if you treat them right.

3.) Correct Size Roller Covers – Using the correct size roller cover is important for two reasons: first you want to make sure the length of your cover is correct for the size roller you have. So if your roller cover is 9 inches, your roller handle should also be 9 inches. Secondly, roller covers come in different nap sizes. Smaller nap sizes are for smooth surfaces (like furniture and table tops) while bigger nap sizes are for rough surfaces (highly textured walls and rough wood surfaces). Most roller covers are labeled clearly with their nap size and what type of surface they are good for.

4.) Plastic Roller Tray – I prefer the plastic roller trays because they’re easier to clean and don’t rust over time. Even with their no-rust advantages, I still try to get as much paint out of the tray as possible, and then I set the roller tray in the garage to dry out. Once it’s dry, I peel the remaining paint off and have a brand new tray.

5.) Handy Paint Cup – This little red cup is one of my favorite painting supplies, and it makes painting so much easier for me! It’s ergonomic to hold and very handy to tote around. As an added bonus, there’s a magnet inside the cup that holds your paint brush up and out of the paint inside. Handy Paint Cups come in a couple of sizes, but the smaller one is just perfect for edging and small projects.

6.) Scotch Blue Delicate Masking Tape with Edge Lock – If you’re needing to tape off an area or make a straight line for your painting project, then Scotch Blue Delicate Masking Tape is the best tape I’ve found by far. Plus, it’s for delicate surfaces so you don’t have to worry about it taking off the existing paint or stain. On minimally textured or smooth walls, you could use this tape and have a perfect line with no bleed through. Surprisingly, even on textured walls, this painters tape does a fair job of preventing any paint from bleeding through. However, if you need perfect lines, consider adding my next item.

7.) Paintable Silicone Caulking – Grab the kind that comes in a squeezable tube, not a caulking gun (this will be easier to control). And make extra sure it is labelled paintable caulk. To make perfect tape lines, you’ll squeeze a bead onto your finger and rub it over the edge of the paint to make sure the tape edge is sealed. Then once the caulking is dry you just paint right over it. Using the caulking is especially important for textured walls because it will ensure that the tape sticks to the wall evenly. Thus leaving you with a smooth and straight line free of blemishes.

8.) Self Leveling Laser level – A self leveling laser level is a good all around tool to have when you’re making over a room. Especially if you need to end your painting at a straight line. Whether you’re making an architectural statement or painting a pattern of lines, a laser level with help save you time. Set your level to your desired spot and use a straight edge and a pencil to draw your line.

9.) Double Layer Drop Cloth – A double layer drop cloth will offer more protection from spills. The top layer will absorb the spilled or splattered paint while the bottom later will keep the spill from soaking into what’s underneath. I prefer the drop cloths that have a canvas texture on the top and are coated with vinyl or rubber on the bottom. Knowing that no matter how much paint I spill or splatter it won’t soak through, gives me peace of mind.

10.) Rubber Mallet and Paint Can Opener – Unless you are using Dutch Boy paint (Dutch Boy Paints comes in an easy to open and pour container) odds are you’ll need a paint can opener and a rubber mallet to seal the can back up. While you could accomplish the tasks of opening and closing paint cans with other items from your tool box, it’s easier and generally more pleasant to use a paint can opener and a rubber mallet. Especially, considering they don’t risk damaging the lid.

11.) Painters Rags – I always keep a heap of painters rags near me, as well as a few in my pockets while I’m painting. That way they are close by to help clean up a spill or get paint off of trim quickly. Also paint rags work much better than paper towels, because they can absorb more paint and don’t fall apart.

12.) Water – I keep two containers of water handy when I’m painting. One in an open container so that I can just dip a painters rag in it in case of an accident – like getting too close to trim work or accidentally painting the ceiling. The second is a water bottle I don’t mind getting paint on, so that I can stay hydrated while I work. By keeping the water near by, I eliminate the risk of tracking paint through the rest of the house when I’m thirsty.

I’m sure there are a few more items I could add to this list, but these are the ones I find myself using the most. These are also the items that I kick myself for when I don’t have them readily available. I hope these help you out as you plan your next project!

Do you have questions about the selecting or the installation of: tile, carpet or wall treatments (window blinds, etc)? Then email me your tale of woe(diva(at)homemakeoverdiva.com) and perhaps I will be able to answer your questions right here at the Home Makeover Diva Blog!

Clark+Kensington Paint Review

01.27.2015 by Amanda Hartley //

Recently, I received a gallon of the new paint from Ace Hardware to use on an upcoming living room project. The new paint line is called Clark+Kensington and it is a ‘paint and primer in one’ product. I’m always eager to try out new products and this paint was certainly no exception, since this allows me to provide a useful Clark+Kensington paint review! I was initially going to write about the paint when the living room makeover was complete. However, the project is going to be delayed because of a fabric backorder. In the meantime, I have decided to share my experience with the new paint!

Let me start off by telling you about my old wall color; it was a cheery – robin’s egg blue. There wasn’t anything wrong with the color, but it was definitely time for something more neutral and classic. Add to that the fact that since I last painted the living room, my furniture had changed and life as a whole had taken its toll on the old paint’s finish. There were a few deep scratches on the wall from a swivel chair that had been placed too close for comfort, as well as claw marks from my American Bulldog, Murphy. Note to fellow dog owners: do not place your dogs bed up against the wall if your dog likes to roll around like a “break dancer.” This will not end well for your wall!

The photo below shows the old paint color on the wall to the right, and the new paint color on the wall to the left.

For the new paint color, I chose Clark+Kensington’s Anchors Away 5062. Before checking out the available paint colors, I already knew the color scheme I was going for. This made my job a little easier in that I knew I was looking for a medium gray color. That said, when I started looking at all the beautiful colors in the Clark+Kensington line, I found myself doubting my color choice. In fact, I almost changed my color scheme and nearly went with Magnetic Force 5022. It’s a deep rich color that I found difficult to resist initially. And since I only painted the bottom part of my walls, from chair rail height and below, it would have made for a very dramatic effect. In the end though, I stuck with the gray because the color went better with other items that I’m replacing in the room.

When it came to choosing the paint sheen, I simply stuck with what I have throughout the rest of the home – eggshell. Personally, I’m partial to eggshell because I don’t like how hard flat paint can be to clean. And despite the perceived benefits of a semi-gloss, I can’t stand shiny walls. So, eggshell was a natural fit for my room. I will point out that had eggshell not been available, I would have picked a satin finish as an alternative. When it comes to sheen though, to each his or her own. You should choose yours based on your own preferences and needs.

Now that I’ve given you a brief run down on my process of choosing a paint color and sheen, let’s talk about how the Clark+Kensington paint performed. Like most ‘paint and primer in one’ products, this one seemed thicker than regular paint. Thanks to the added thickness, this helps the paint cover the wall better than a regular paint. After just one coat of paint, most of the previous paint color was gone. There were a few areas where the low spots from the wall texture were still blue, but overall the paint did a great job with just one single coat. And I imagine that if I was more careful and touched up each section as I went along, I could have gotten away with only applying one coat of paint.

Below is a close up photo of the wall, with just one coat of the new paint.

Because of the areas I missed with the first coat of paint, I did continue on and apply a second coat to the walls. Again, had I noticed those missed areas before the paint was dry, I would of just touched them up as I went. But doing them afterward would have been noticeable. It is important to point out too, that even though some brands of ‘paint and primer in one’ paints say you can get away with using only 1 coat of paint this is not always the case. This works only in ideal conditions. For example if you’re painting a very light color on a white wall, you may be able to get away with only one coat. However, if you’re using a color that uses a lot of pigment and/or is darker over a white wall, you will still need a minimum of two coats.

Anchors Away is a mid-tone gray color and is on the cusp of needing a second a coat when painted on a white wall. My blue walls may have acted like a tinted primer helping the paint cover a little better than had my walls been stark white. However, I still think the key to having had my walls painted in just one coat would have been more careful examination as I painted. I also found the Clark+Kensington color cards quite helpful, when trying to determine whether or not a paint color would need an addition coat of paint. The richer, more pigmented colors are marked with a star to let you know that they require additional coats to reach optimal color.

Overall, I’m very pleased with the new Clark+Kensington Paint. The paint covers well and there are a variety of colors to choose from. The color cards are also designed very well. I love that each card has a photo on the front using the colors on the card. This is especially helpful when looking for color ideas and inspiration! Plus the staff at Ace Hardware are always so helpful! Because of all these factors, I would recommend using Clark+Kensington paint for your next project.

Disclosure: The product in this review was provided by Ace Hardware, however this is NOT a paid review by any means and our findings with Clark+Kensington Paint are unbiased and authentic.